This is the Cathedral of Lima, photographed during the only hours of sunshine I have experienced in Peru (you can click on the pictures). It was built in 1535 and has been restored many times. We didn't get to go in.
Next to the Cathedral of Lima and not quite as magnificent is the government palace, named House of Pizarro. It was named after Francisco Pizarro, the Spanish conquistador that came to Peru in the 1500's with a handful of men and brought the Inca era to an end.I first read about this clash of civilizations in Jared Diamonds' book, entitled 'Guns, Germs and Steel'. This is one of my favorite books but I'll try not to write a book report. Basically, it is a theory about the root causes for why the balance of power in our world is so lopsided, exemplified by how Pizarro's 200 men defeated an army of 80,000. Yeah, that's not a typo. Why did Europeans conquer North and South America and not the other way around? The answer is given in the title, but Diamond tries to understand why Europeans developed the guns, germs and steel, and the Americans didn't. It's not cause they're smarter.
The historical account of when Pizarro met the Inca ruler, Atahualpa, is astonishing. In a nutshell, the Inca empire was weakened by civil war and smallpox from earlier European contact. When they formally met, Pizarro's guns and horses freaked out the Incan army and in the ensuing panic and massacre, Atahualpa was captured. Pizarro asked for one room filled with gold and two with silver as ransom. He received it and then killed Atahualpa anyway, sending the Inca empire into chaos. Guns, germs and steal?
The government palace has army guards, gates and tanks surrounding it.
About two minutes away, behind the House of Pizarro, beyond a strategically placed tank, across a bridge and past the armed soldiers, is a different world.
I think this is the edge of the slums.
We were tempted to go further but it would have been unwise according to Gisela, our Peruvian friend and guide. Why tempt fate?
We retreated to a relic of a bar that was centuries old (said the newpaper on the wall) to satisfy our thirst for authentic Peruvian experience.
1 comment:
Traveling with Ben, who speaks fluent spanish will make getting around sooo much easier!! But i hope to learn lots in my first 2 months in Mexico.
I'll remember not to bring any valuables to the bars in Peru to avoid getting robbed!
i just read a book called Ines of my Soul by Isabel Allende (spanish originally but translated to english). Its about the spanish conquistadors in peru and chili and gives an interesting perspective about some of the history because she writes as if it is her own biography. I recommend it...but it might be to girly for you.
cant wait to come visit! Let me know what you think of Huancayo I haven't herd much good stuff in other travel blogs unfortunately).
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